The always changing food menu, which is limited in the evenings as the drinking picks up, ranges from chicken soup with poached egg to a fried chicken sandwich to market driven salads and fresh baked pies. Owned by American brother sister team of food writer Scarlett Lindeman and her photographer brother Jake, Colonia Juarez’s Cicatriz is an eclectic café with lots of light and an all around great drinking selection that dabbles in natural wines, artisanal Mexican beers, mezcal, and original cocktails. Their wine list, expertly curated by co-owner Gaëtan Rousset, who imports natural wines from the Loire and Rhône, presents of wines from France, Chile, Mexico, and Spain that can be paired with a short menu of eclectic dishes ( shakshouka, burrata, boeuf bourguignonne) from Joaquin Cardoso. This narrow, subterranean spot in Colonia Roma Norte, not far from La Glorieta de Insurgentes, has one of the DFs best selections of natural, organic, and biodynamic wines. Come here late-night and you’re likely to see a chef or two. There’s a small menu of rotating specials like wagyu burgers and duck tostadas. The lengthy menu of natural wines and rare sakes and Japanese whiskeys isn’t cheap by any means, but it’s immaculately chosen and unlike anywhere else in the DF. This 10 to 15-person standing only traditional Japanese-style bar from the Rokai-Kobayashi restaurant group might be Mexico City’s wine bar of the moment. Téllez’ simple dishes and elegant cooking are on display here – grilled seafood, shellfish stews, a lush beef tartare, freshly baked bread – and added to the warmth of the bi-level space that begs patrons to sip some wine and stay a while, he has another winner on his hands. Jair Téllez’s Valle de Guadalupe spot, Laja, and perennial DF haunt, Merotoro, are established destinations for the Mexican food set, but with Amaya, in Colonia Juárez, he turns his emphasis toward wine with Mexico’s first all natural wine list, including his own label from Tecate, Bichi. While there are only a few bodegas in Mexico dedicated to the craft, such as Bichi in Tecate, from chef Jair Téllez, and Vena Cava in the Valle de Guadalupe, some of these bars have resorted to becoming importers, bringing in a new wave of indie wines from Chile, France, and Italy. The DF now has Latin America’s largest selection of places to drink natural, organic, and biodynamic wine, plus the variety is better. While lots of restaurants have been pouring vinos naturales for some time – Mero Toro, Quintonil, Rosetta, Lorea, and Pujol to name a few – the recent influx of natural wine bars and cafés has appeared with a fury. All Rights Reserved.Suddenly, Mexico City is awash in natural wine.
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